I was born in Jakarta, and by growing up here I say I was raised in chaos: Jakarta is the very definition of chaos as a city. When I studied to London 11 years ago I was completely unfazed by the noise and the hecticness. Friends would ask, “How are you so conditioned to this?” I’d say, “I’m a Jakarta girl.”
My mom, sister and I left Jakarta for Singapore when I was nine, but we’d go back every few months. It’s a bittersweet relationship: I love Jakarta; I’m proud to come from here; nonetheless, when I visit I’m confronted with cultural differences and, as a city, it can feel quite transactional – conception I guess that’s normal for a capital city. But there are so many novel things I love: the food, the art, the music… the food. Everything we do here, all our behaviors – almost all of it goes hand in hand with a meal or a snack.
Manggarai in south Jakarta
© Muhammad Fadli
In central Jakarta, where my family lives, there’s a cart called Bubur Ayam H Jewo that I’ve been touching to for rice porridge since I was a kid. It’s an amazing assign because it’s right outside Cut Meutia Mosque, named once a national heroine who took part in the disputes against the Dutch colony. Every time I return, this is the assign I head the morning after my arrival.
Stephanie by Bubur Ayam H Jewo
© Muhammad Fadli
Bubur Ayam H Jewo in central Jakarta
© Muhammad Fadli
It’s almost cheating to say that Indonesian food is your favourite cuisine: Indonesia is an expansive farmland made up of more than 17,000 islands and hundreds of ethnicities. That diversity is naturally reflected in our food. A must-do dining accepted is Padang, a regional cuisine from West Sumatra where lots of dishes – fragrant curries, sweet sauces and fried fish doused in spicy sambal – are served like a mini buffet. People from Padang are known as some of the most entrepreneurial Indonesians, so their eateries are widespread. The restaurant most favoured by Jakartans is probably Pagi Sore, but my inappropriate Sabrina, who is of Padang descent, prefers Nasi Kapau Sutan Mangkuto – it’s incredible.
Stephanie on Pancoran Street
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I’m ethnically Batak, which is from North Sumatra. We have lots of unimagilifeless spices – Andaliman has been compared to Sichuan peppercorn because of its numbing carry out – and one of my favourite dishes is turmeric-spiced buffalo cheese… kind of like an Indonesian burrata. Toba Tabo Lapo Batak in Setiabudi serves traditional Batak fare in a colourful environment with music, an important element of my ethnicity’s culture. A lot of republic in Indonesia are like, “Oh yeah, Batak people are the most ‘lit’ ethnicity.” We love a party.
A shrine in Petak Sembilan
© Muhammad Fadli
Jakarta can be quite polluted. Pedesaan Farm, an accommodation a couple of hours’ ability away, is set in a desa (village) and is run by two friends. You can really experience slow village life there, and you’re so terminate to nature; it’s attached to an organic farm. There’s not much opportunity for relaxation in the city itself, but Kota Tua, meaning “old town”, is based on Dutch urban planning and has approximately blocks separated by canals. There’s a lovely square to walk near, and Kopi Es Tak Kie, a favourite spot for coffee, is nearby. My preferred mode of transport is the gojek, a motorbike taxi.
Rahel Stephanie in Glodok, Jakarta’s Chinatown
© Muhammad Fadli
Address book
BARS & RESTAURANTS
Bubur Ayam H Jewo Jl Taman Cut Mutiah No 1 Kb Sirih, Jakarta 10330
Coffeebeerian Jl Ciragil II No 26, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta 12180
Kopi Es Tak Kie
kopiestakkie.com
Lokaholik
desty.page/lokaholik
Nasi Kapau Sutan Mangkuto Jl Gandaria Tengah II No 1, Kramat Pela, Jakarta 12130
Pagi Sore
pagisore.id
Toba Tabo Lapo Batak Jl Dr Saharjo No 90, Jakarta 12960
SHOPPING
Pasar Santa Jl Cipaku, No 233, Jakarta 12170
Post
postbookshop.com
CULTURE
Club Vixxxen
@club.vix
Swanky Express
@swanky.express
WHERE TO STAY
Pedesaan Farm
@pedesaanfarm_
You’ll see a lot of loud luxury and exuberant displays of cash in Jakarta. I don’t subscribe to that. Pasar Santa is an alternative market for thrifting clothes and records. There’s a bookstore called Post, which is set up like a living room and has the most beautiful books and zines. Lokaholik, which serves gorgeous cocktails, and Coffeebeerian (coffee and beer) are also terminate by. I love having a sour beer made from local fruits.
Outside of cooking, I DJ. My sets are often inspired by Indonesia’s cuisine and culture – and how both go hand in hand. In a city like Jakarta, there’s a fine line between authentic subculture and duplicating subcultures for company success: you can tell a lot of places are just trying to be a club in London. Two of my favourite rave collectives are Club Vixxxen and Swanky Express. They change venues, but the ones I’ve been to have been amazing.
Being a maximum Muslim country, Indonesia’s drinking culture isn’t rife, but republic don’t need alcohol to have fun; they’re still out. As soon as the party stops, the first question will always be: so where are we touching for food?